Best Tailoring Trick I Ever Learned

Well ladies, I am about to show you a fix for one of 
the most annoying fitting problems ever. You ready?

Pants that feel like they're crotching you to death. 
You know what I'm talking about. 

You make a new pair of pants, excitedly try them on, 
and find that they pull in the front, or you can't sit in them. 
Grrr!!

It's the one thing that can really keep you from getting 
any fashion mileage out of your newly-sewn creation. 

I can tell you that there are two possible reasons for this.

One:  The front crotch area is improperly shaped 
for the body of the wearer. 
The rise needs to be reshaped.

Two:  The pants are shorter waisted than the person wearing them.

The rise needs to be lowered.

Let's start with the reshaping. 

I have a favorite pattern I use when I want to make some 

comfy pants or PJ's. Everything about it is perfect. 

Except for the part where they pull in the crotch. 

Not comfy at all.

Here's how to fix that.

Lay the pants out so that you can get at the center front

seam. You will be changing the curve, or Reshaping The Rise.

Measure 1 1/4" up from the leg inseam. 

Mark 1/4" out from the crotch seam at this point.

Now draw a new curve down to the inseam, 

and up along the center front seam. 

You are making the curve deeper. 

Sew along the line you made, and trim off the excess fabric.

Finish the new edge with your serger or a zigzag stitch.

Try your pants on. Do they feel better? If so, your work is done.

If they need to be adjusted a bit more, 
here is the next part. Lowering The Rise 

Measure 1/4" - 3/8" down from the crotch seam and mark.

Draw a new curve, but this time carry it up 

along the back seam as well as the front. 

You can make your curve bigger than

mine is if you want. I usually take it a bit at a time

so that I don't do anything drastic. Not that I've done

(much of) that sort of thing when I'm sewing. 

Stitch along your line, trim, and finish your edge.

You should now be able to sit down comfortably in your pants.

I marked the original curve on the pants so that you can

see the difference. You have cut the rise lower, making

room in your garment for movement and comfort.

This alteration comes in really handy for pants, shorts, 

coveralls, jumpsuits, and rompers. 

I've used it many times.

Hope it helps you, too!

Till next time, keep on sewing!

Val

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